Why There’s Always a Line at Lodge Bread in Woodland Hills
Flour power, indeed.
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CategoryEat & Drink, People
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Written byLinda Grasso
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Photographed byJakob Layman
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AboveCo-owner Or Amsalam at Lodge Bread
My husband and I were on a no-carb kick a few years ago. No rice, bread or potatoes. It went on for several years, and it didn’t really seem too bothersome—until I discovered Lodge Bread in Woodland Hills.
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It was in 2019, and I had ventured west on the Boulevard to check out the new Valley Country Mart. The outdoor mall was sleepy; mine was one of four or five cars parked in the large lot. One of the few tenants was Lodge Bread, so I popped in for a look. Just to the right of the counter: shelves stacked with beautiful loaves of fresh-baked bread. One was called Country Loaf; another was tagged Ancient Grain. There were six or seven other options, including rye and spelt, as well as a small self-serve refrigerator filled with homemade hummus and stewed tomato-based shakshuka, which is often served as a nest for poached eggs. As I gazed at the gorgeous loaves, the friendly employee at the counter quipped, “They taste even better than they look! We can slice up a loaf so you can use it for sandwiches if you like.”
“Over the years the neighborhood found us, and it has really embraced what we’re doing.”
I couldn’t resist. I bought a dark, seedy loaf and some fava bean hummus and chowed down right then and there in the car. Hello, carbs. I’ve missed you.
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I am no longer carb-free, as my head has been hit by another ping-pong ball—a new school of thought, summed up by a nutritionist at a spa seminar I attended: “Carbs should be 40% of your food intake; it is the body’s preferred food source over protein and fat.” Needless to say this mindset jibes wonderfully with my discovery of Lodge Bread.
A lot has changed for the eatery in the past five years. Visit Lodge today—particularly around noon—and the parking lot is packed and there is often a line snaking out the door. People have caught on to the bread—which is naturally leavened—and the dishes. Thanks to the addition of patio tables in the adjacent courtyard, you can order at the counter and have your food brought to you when it is ready. From breakfast through lunch, people are dining on the patio, noshing on fresh salads piled inches high, brightly hued pizza, and an array of toast dishes. Toasts of all kinds: with cultured butter or ricotta and seasonal house-made jam, cinnamon and sugar, or almond butter.
The most popular version? Avocado toast topped with thinly sliced radishes, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt.
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The popular shakshuka and egg dish.
“My favorite way to order it is to add an egg on top. We serve it with a steak knife so you can make a mess of it,” says co-owner Arthur Sherman.
When you learn that Lodge was a finalist for a James Beard Award in the baking category a few years ago, you might assume its origins are snooty. Perhaps Lodge originates from a classically trained baker raised on baguettes in France? Not so. Lodge started as a dare between Or Amsalam and his cofounder, Alex Phaneuf. They were both working at a West Hollywood restaurant where Or was developing a bread recipe. He created a version so tasty that other restaurants wanted to purchase it. The duo took the leap, quit their jobs, started cooking in Alex’s backyard, and ultimately opened their first location in Culver City in 2015.
Alex eventually left the company and Arthur came on board as co-owner. Arthur says he is grateful that, despite the slow start, the Woodland Hills location took off. “Over the years the neighborhood found us, and it has really embraced what we’re doing. We’re blown away by the support and appreciate all our guests who frequent that shop. The best part is to see how my team interacts with guests and the genuine friendships they’ve made with our regulars. It’s why we’re in this business.”
Some parting advice: if you plan to visit on the weekend to buy bread, get there early. By 11 a.m. there is little selection left. Just crumbs.
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