Since the foie gras ban in California was lifted a few weeks ago after a 2½-year halt, chefs have quickly integrated this controversial yet beloved delicacy back into their menus. There are numerous restaurants "over-the-hill" serving it, but so far only three in the San Fernando Valley are back in the game. So if foie gras is your thing—here’s where you can get it locally.

Firefly
 
Chef Paul Shoemaker has created three dishes: foie gras torchon: a spiced port-poached pear, candied espresso beans, black currant, shaved black truffle and toasted brioche; seared Hudson Valley foie gras (photo above): quince, bourbon-poached pineapple, walnut brittle, coffee cream sauce; and foie gras ravioli: black truffles and toasted brioche. Paul relays, “People are calling Firefly and are excited to hear that we are offering foie gras. It’s a delicacy that can be used in so many ways: sauces, terrine, seared, torchon, parfait, etc. The texture is delicious, buttery and unique in flavor. There are so many great ingredients out there, and to me foie gras is one of the top 10. It brings such a warmth to the kitchen through its delicate, beautiful and enriching qualities.” 11720 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City, 818-762-1833

GC Marketplace
 
Chef Gary Arabia is serving torchon of foie gras burger (above) dressed with a Santa Christina "Vin Santo" gastrique, served open-faced on toasted house-made challah. “Foie gras is one of the most luxurious items on the planet, particularly in its natural form,” states Gary. “The beauty of the GC Marketplace foie gras burger is when you first bite in, you taste this cold creamy, rich, delicious texture and flavor, combined with the prime meat that we grind in-house. The essence of it all together is really what I would consider umami.” 3315 Cahuenga Boulevard West, Los Angeles (near Universal), 323-645-5269

Brandywine
 
This intimate, traditional French mainstay in Woodland Hills serves it as a simple, classic variation: sautéed with a fig and port wine reduction on brioche. Foie gras is rather a "fact of life" ingredient to owner/chef Peggy McWilliams, who says they are thrilled to have it on the menu again. “We’ve had it since 1991, and it is the perfect complement to our cuisine.” 22757 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, 818-225-9114