The Mulholland Eatery May Only Be in Calabasas but It Feels like a Getaway

The Mulholland is located in the space of the former Bernard’s Wine Gallery. The three offspring of the owners of Bernard’s have taken over the space from their parents, transforming it into an attractive eatery with a farmhouse vibe. A plethora of appetizers and some raw bar options are on offer, but only six main entrees. They range from charred cabbage with apple, farro and rosemary ($25) to an 8-ounce prime filet mignon served with brussels sprouts ($56).

Knowing the connection to Bernard’s, I was surprised that the wine selection wasn’t massive or peppered with big-name labels. Instead the wine list feels thoughtful and carefully curated. The family, as I discovered, owns Coquelicot Estate Vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley, which produces organic varietals. Several of them are served here, along with an assortment of other varietals, mostly from California and Europe. Patrons can order any of them by the glass—a nice touch you don’t see often. A couple of rosés and an “orange blend” looked interesting; I’d like to try one of those on my next visit when the weather is warmer.

At the suggestion of our friendly waitress, we began the meal with a Caesar salad. It was a zesty dish made with flavorful chicory lettuces that tasted like they’d been picked that morning. In lieu of croutons, the salad was topped with razor-thin homemade red potato chips. We loved it. We also enjoyed another house specialty—a round of warm, homemade focaccia served with “pizza butter,” a reddish concoction flecked with mild spices.

For entrees, my husband ordered the Petaluma chicken, which featured a roasted breast along with a confit leg—slow cooked in duck fat—mushroom, and potato puree. This is a guy who eats chicken all the time, and I wondered why he didn’t order something more adventurous. However, he absolutely devoured the dish, proclaiming it “one of the best chicken dishes I’ve ever had.” He was impressed with the moist, flavorful meat and the tasty confit. I ordered the sauteed scallops—for me, a gamble. Half the time I order scallops I’m disappointed. They’re either an underwhelming trio of medium-size scallops attractively assembled on a plate for $50, or they’re ridiculously overcooked. But these scallops were a delightful surprise. Three perfectly cooked large scallops arrived in a bowl of scrumptious curry sauce with baby carrots, forbidden rice—which had a wonderful chewy texture—and Thai basil. The sauce absolutely made this dish, and I didn’t leave behind a single drop.

With delicious food, friendly service and a pleasing vibe, The Mulholland has all the ingredients of an enjoyable night out, whether a date night or an evening with friends. That said, it’s smart to choose the right seat. You have four options: the bar area in the front, an elevated main dining room in the middle; a narrow hallway-like space toward the back; or the large tented patio behind the structure. Unfortunately, my husband and I were seated in the hallway-like space, which has nothing on the floor, ceiling or walls to buffer sound. The restaurant was full that night, and the loud noise made conversation impossible. We thought it might simply be that particular space, but coincidentally, some of our friends were dining in the bar area and had the same issue. Our waitress said they are working on improving acoustics at the restaurant, but in the meantime, here’s some advice: If you are dining on a Friday or Saturday night or on a weekend for brunch (launching in June) during peak times, sit on the patio, which by the way, is dog friendly. On a warm summer night or morning, The Mulholland will feel like a sweet retreat.