This is bowling? Formerly AMF Woodlake Lanes, Bowlero Woodland Hills re-opened earlier this month with a new retro-modern look, floor-to-ceiling video screens, a rockin’ sound system, an interactive game arcade and a mind-blowing 32 lanes of black light bowling. Like it says in giant glowing letters on the wall: W-O-W.

Despite the dazzle, The Sauce—perhaps the world’s worst bowler—dropped by last Friday focused on trying the food and drink. After all, how often does a bowling alley boast an executive chef? This one does: Edward Porter, winner of Food Network’s Grocery Store Games.

Many offerings are appropriately zany: The “Go Crazy” menu includes a five-pound Behemoth Burger ($54.99) and the two-foot Wonder Dog ($18.99). Dessert-wise, there are monster cookie melts, color wheels (ice-cream and cookie sandwiches rolled in rainbow sprinkles) and the hot S’More Skillet drizzled with caramel sauce. Don’t worry—dogs and burgers also come in normal sizes.

But nowhere does one find tired hot dogs or sad, frozen pizza slices rotating behind glass near the bowling shoes. You get a real menu featuring fresh-made fare served to your booth at your lane. Yes, it’s tacos, nachos, burgers, melts, fries—but all prepared with the attention worthy of a Ventura Boulevard gastropub. There’s an extensive cocktail menu, house and premium wines, and "Beer Goggles" blends of various beers and liquors.

We tried the flavorful hand-breaded chicken Love Me Tenders and tasty Electric Sliders (beef sliders in the bacon and cheese variety—also available with Cheez Whiz). At general manager Richie Clark’s suggestion, we went for Beer Goggles: the popular Angry Jack (a sweet and spicy combo of Angry Orchard Cider and Jack Daniels Fire, and the Rated “R” Root Beer, blending Not Your Father’s Root Beer and RumChata).

Silly fun with quality food … what’s not to like? Still, it may take The Sauce a while to get brave enough for the Dunk Tank, a fishbowl-sized cocktail of Bacardi Black, Bacardi Coconut, Bacardi Silver, BOLS Amaretto and assorted juices ($32).

23130 Ventura Blvd., 818-225-7181