Deux Bistro Aims to Serve Authentic French Fare in Woodland Hills
Oui oui!
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CategoryEat & Drink, People
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Written byJeffrey Saad
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AboveNicolas Fanucci and son Lucas
Considering the many moving parts that must all come together, most restaurants strive to create a family vibe with the staff. That goal is easily accomplished at Deux Bistro in Woodland Hills because nearly the entire family works there—pedigreed restaurateur Nicolas Fanucci, son Lucas who co-owns and operates the eatery, son Sebastian—an architect student who did its design—and wife Fazilet, who makes the desserts and does the flowers. The youngest son, Enzo, is training as a chef in Napa Valley.
Nicolas was born and raised in Canne, France, and has worked in hospitality since he was a teenager. He acquired his sense of premier service from working front-of-house for the greats—in France with chefs Paul Bocuse and Alain Ducasse and later in Napa Valley with Thomas Keller at The French Laundry. Nicolas was the general manager of that eatery when it earned its three-star Michelin rating—a rarity in the restaurant world.
Nicolas’ outpost in Woodland Hills, which opened earlier this year, is his third. He ran one in Malibu for a few years (now closed), and he also owns a location at the Beverly Center, which offers Vietnamese and French fusion cuisine. In Woodland Hills, Nicolas aims to offer hospitality without pretension. He says the experience is geared to be “fun, yet we still respect the rules.” Son Lucas chimes in with a smile: “This is a fun way to eat good. French food can scare people.” But don’t think that playful vibe comes at the expense of upscale hospitality. “We are not about taking shortcuts. It needs to be right,” Nicolas states.
People who know and love food always say that LA is missing real French bistros. I agree. But starting with butter-drenched escargot—served with the most perfect French baguette, crunchy on the outside with a light airy center—I immediately recognized that Deux Bistro is a standout. As I mopped up the herb butter sauce at the bottom of each simmering ceramic divot, my anticipation level was high.
Next up was duck confit. Although cooked in its own fat and quite rich, when done properly, it is crispy, and the meat is not fatty. I cut through a perfectly crisp skin and grabbed a morsel of moist meat—a texture symphony that’s not easy to achieve. And while it is classic to pair duck with a gastric sweet-sour sauce or chutney, Deux Bistro does a delicious twist by laying the duck on a bed of watercress with pickled cucumbers, roasted raisins and caramelized onions. The sweet acidity is the perfect foil to the richness.
The wines here are unpretentious and a perfect match for the food. I had their house red, a Loire Valley Malbec, which was bright and medium-bodied. The menu is classic French bistro with starters like French onion soup, steak tartare served with French fries, warm goat cheese salad with beets, and a Bibb salad with champagne vinaigrette. Entrees include trout almondine, steak frites, an 8-ounce “Deux Burger” and a grilled tuna Niçoise. All of this culinary pleasure takes place in a small, quaint dining room with a dimly lit dining patio that runs alongside. Soft music plays throughout; service is warm and impeccable. As I left, satiated in every way, I couldn’t help feeling like I’d just enjoyed a small slice of Europe—dining in a real French bistro.