Several old-school Italian delis are still going strong in the West Valley, and Cavaretta’s Italian Groceries has remained a Canoga Park classic since 1959—five years before nearby Westfield Topanga mall first sprouted. Lou Cavaretta started by stacking cold cuts and cheese on Italian hoagie rolls. Lou retired in 1983, selling the business to current owners, Paul Nunneri and David Weisberg.

A patio with Boar’s Head umbrellas hints at offerings within Cavaretta’s, which features a small dining area with red and green tables and aisles of Italian-focused grocery items. Order at a worn wooden counter backed by a map of Italy and a small army of Dodgers bobbleheads. Look down to find a tantalizing case of cannoli and cookies, plus brownies, bars and cheesecake from La Mousse.

Variety is large for a business so compact. As their motto says, “If you can’t smell it … we don’t have it.”

Hearty sandwiches all come on sturdy bread coated with sesame seeds that’s delivered daily. Possible fillings include meatballs, sausage and peppers, pastrami, maple turkey and Buffalo chicken. Still, the true test of an Italian deli is their Italian combo, and Cavaretta’s earns more than a passing grade. The Italian ($6.95 for 6 inches, $8.95 for 9 inches) combines the simple pleasures of soft mortadella, Molinari and cotto salami, capicola and provolone cheese. Add The Works and get lettuce, tomato, onion, mustard, mayonnaise and Italian dressing. You’re definitely going to want The Works.

Bonus: If you announce yourself as a first-time guest, you’re likely to receive a house-made cannoli with chocolate sprinkles at one end, on the house.

22045 Sherman Way, Canoga Park, 818-340-6626