Ignacio Torres and brother Eric grew up in Ensenada and opened Bajacali Tacos three months ago in a North Hollywood strip mall, featuring the Mexican seafood dishes of their youth. The brothers previously ran a restaurant by the same name in Clearwater, Florida, up until seven years ago. They relocated to LA and helped Northgate Markets open Norwalk and Anaheim locations and expand organic focus before reviving Bajacali Tacos.

Bajacali Tacos replaced a torta shop, and before that, Pollo Gordo. The long and lean space features sea blue and yellow walls lined with food photos. Order at a kitchen window next to a wall-mounted menu.

Each meal starts with house-made tortilla chips with tomatillo salsa. Eric says, “It has other ingredients, but we cannot disclose.”

The fish taco ($1.83 each) features wild pollock, cabbage, cilantro crema and chipotle crema on corn tortillas. On Taco Tuesday, fish tacos cost only $.99. Tacos are also available with shrimp and less Baja-specific proteins like carne asada, carnitas, chorizo and chicken. Burritos and tortas (sandwiches) include a similar complement of proteins.

Bajacalishrimp quesadilla ($2.99) is another key item, with a griddled, folded-over corn tortilla bursting with shrimp, molten Monterey Jack cheese, tomato, onion, cilantro and avocado.

Tostada mixta ($6.99) is the standout tostada, featuring a crisp corn tortilla disc piled with lime marinated shrimp, fish (wild swai), octopus marinated in lime, avocado, tomatoes, onions and cilantro. Cocktails are available with either shrimp or campechana and come with a similar group of ingredients, all bathing in a “signature Bajacali blend.”

For cooler weather, Bajacali Tacos also serves caldo de camaron (shrimp soup) or caldo de pescado (fish soup). Huevos rancheros and mojarra frita (whole fried fish) are also available.

Drink aguas frescas or champurrado, a thick, hot beverage crafted with masa and chocolate.

11640 Victory Blvd., North Hollywood, 818-514-0686