Bistro Jolie Warrants Trip to Upper Bel-Air for Mediterranean Fare

Bistro Jolie is a promising new Mediterranean restaurant located near the top of Beverly Glen in the The Glen Centre. Chef Cody Dickey previously cooked at Carbon Club in Malibu and for Bobby Flay at Gato in New York City. At Bistro Jolie he’s serving Mediterranean food that the website describes as having “nods to Provence, Basque Country and classic French bistro interpreted through Southern California product and Los Angeles savoir faire.” That’s a mouthful, though I can attest that comfort is also a priority in his open kitchen.

My lunch starred standout steak frites, a luscious 10-ounce flat iron with a winning sear and espelette-herb butter topping, served with crispy skin-on pommes frites and herb aioli. Piquillo peppers stuffed with raw marinated albacore tuna butchered in back were also notable, served on crunchy crostini.

Dinner touts an even larger menu, including “small plates” like Dungeness crab cocktail plated with upland cress, kumquat, creamy pink peppercorn dressing and “Neptune spice”; and “large plates” such as whole loup de mer (Mediterranean sea bass) stuffed with lemon and herb and served with Mediterranean salad.

The space previously housed Charlie’s Pantry. The renovation is light and airy, complete with a wraparound patio and dining room with massive skylight, blue and yellow cushioned booths, and complementary plant-life.

Owner Thomas Plejer also owns the adjacent Jayde’s Market, which offers a curated selection of grocery items, coffee and sandwiches.

2922 Beverly Glen Cir., Bel-Air, 310-773-9484